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  #531  
Old 07-01-2018, 07:40 AM
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I do wonder if Midrange Compensation is less important with speakers that have horns. My crossover is around 1500 Hz, which is a bit lower than the 2000 Hz Audyssey targets. But I don't notice the harshness they describe that can result when turning off Midrange Compensation. Could that have to do with the directivity from a horn speaker? Anything to do with the waveform guide? I'm getting into science I'm not strong on.
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  #532  
Old 07-03-2018, 02:40 AM
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I do wonder if Midrange Compensation is less important with speakers that have horns. My crossover is around 1500 Hz, which is a bit lower than the 2000 Hz Audyssey targets. But I don't notice the harshness they describe that can result when turning off Midrange Compensation. Could that have to do with the directivity from a horn speaker? Anything to do with the waveform guide? I'm getting into science I'm not strong on.
Wow, these posts are good stuff! I love the idea of starting with the curve Audyssey generates and playing from there. It may correct a lot of stuff but everybodyís ears and preferences are different.

To be honest, the BBC curve never bothered me... but I donít love it. And that was generated in like 1960, drivers have changed a lot since then. And yep, for horns I think it makes less sense. Your JBL horns arenít exactly straining at 2kHz like a 1960 dome tweeter would be. Your face will melt just before they start to compress the signal even a bit.

Once I get back from vacation I should play with my EQ some more. Overall itís fairly flat but I might try adding in a bit more treble. My ears arenít getting any younger and itís a bit rolled off above 10k or so.
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  #533  
Old 07-03-2018, 02:51 AM
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Starting to acquire stuff for my Chevy Volt install. Itís gonna be a cheap actuary install, the car is a horrible environment and Iím just not interested in spending the time or money necessary to try working around it all.

Got some Alpine tweeters, they are small versions of the Peerless ring radiatiors. They were manufactured by Vifa (now Peerless) but badged as Alpine. $43 shipped on eBay.

For the doors, Iím using Silver Flute 6.5Ē from Madisound. Always heard good things but Iíve never heard a pair. Cast frame, rubber surround, big motor, they look well-built. Xmax is 5mm, the Dayton Reference have more excursion. But these are more efficient, and I wonít be using much power. MSRP is $60/pr, but a friend has a pro account and got them for $48/pr for me.

Figured out a 10Ē sub is possible, but I need one with minimal mounting depth. There arenít many decent options. There was an MB Quart for $55, but it didnít model all that well and the reviews were mixed. So I did pony up here for a JL Audio 10TW1. Normally I think JL is way overpriced, especially the home subs, but I got this for $140 shipped on eBay.

Now I need an amp, a DSP, and some sound damping material - the doors already rattle and buzz a lot. After vacation I will start on the box. Fiberglassing the floor to maximize air space, 1/2Ē birch for the rest with lots of bracing. Itís only gonna get 200-250w, so that should be fine.
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  #534  
Old 07-03-2018, 09:36 AM
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Wow, that sounds like a big project with the Volt!
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  #535  
Old 07-03-2018, 09:51 AM
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Wow, that sounds like a big project with the Volt!
The fiberglass takes time. The rest is fairly easy, as car installs go. The wiring is really easy, because the signal wires are all right there in the trunk. The 12v battery is about 18Ē from where the amp will go.

I suppose no car install is super easy, but the Volt is pretty straightforward.
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  #536  
Old 07-06-2018, 10:15 AM
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I need some help with an audio set up.

We are gutting/rehabbing our house and I want a whole house audio system. The set up is as follows:
-Half a dozen Chromecast Audios in the basement connected to an ethernet switch (to keep them from using up wifi bandwidth
-Half a dozen speaker pairs in various rooms (living, kitchen, bathrooms, back deck) either in-wall or in-ceiling.

So I think I have two options:
1) Have some sort of multi-channel amp in the basement with a CA connected to each channel and then run speaker wire to each room speaker pair.
2) Have a mini-amp in each room connected to the speaker pair and a toslink and/or 3.5mm cable run to each mini amp from the CAs.

Do I have some other option?

Thanks in advance.
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  #537  
Old 07-08-2018, 09:55 AM
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Curious to see if ahow gets any feedback. This is stuff I've never messed around with, but might one day.
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  #538  
Old 07-08-2018, 12:15 PM
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Iím not an expert either, but I think ahow has the basic idea correct. Is it possible to transmit the sound via Bluetooth so you donít have to route wires to the basement? Maybe Sonos has something to do this? If the basement isnít finished then running wires may be a lot simpler, especially if itís a ranch house.

Otherwise, you either have to route signal wires to each room and have one amp per room, or get one big multi-channel amp and run speaker wires. Given the choice Iíd rather have one amp. Just to avoid having to figure out where to put eight different amps.

And if the basement is unfinished, we need to talk about building you an infinite baffle sub. It would extend into the basement and the sound would be fed through a floor vent. A guy named Tom Nousaine did this with, I believe, eight 12Ē drivers back in the 90s. Letís workshop this.
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  #539  
Old 07-09-2018, 02:15 PM
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Some comments:
Regarding Sonos, we have a Sonos 5 that we got as a gift from my BIL. I don't much care for the Sonos app, especially how you have to queue and search music. Plus Sonos is very expensive, so I could save more (maybe much more) than $100 per room by doing what I'm mentioning.

Overall, I would prefer to just use apps on my phone (Google Play Music, Spotify, etc) and just cast them. Additionally, we have a couple of Google Home Minis and you can tie them to a Chromecast Audio so when you say play X on Google Play Music, it plays on the Kitchen automatically instead of the tiny Mini speaker. Plus others visiting the house can also cast from their phone without needing the Sonos app.

The house (2 story historic home) is being entirely gutted and redone, including reconfiguring the layout of the house (moving stairwell, adding bedrooms, opening up the main floor) and will have all new plumbing/electrical, etc. The basement is brand new already and not finished (block walls, concrete floors, floor joists above).

Basically, I'm going to run ethernet, coax, and whatever speaker stuff while we have everything open and gutted.

As for locating the mini amps if I were to take that route, I can added small boxes in the closets or upper cabinets of the various rooms, so they would be accessible, but tucked away. Are any of these things what I'm looking for?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=10761
https://www.markertek.com/product/dn...with-bluetooth
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/A...DTK/ezvid02-20
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  #540  
Old 07-09-2018, 02:57 PM
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Watch out for those load-bearing walls.

I've got nothing to add (yes, like a lot of my posts).

Probably the best way to reconfigure wiring is by gutting the whole house. Few need to do that, though. You're "lucky" in a way.

Various things we do:
1. Connect old iPod to simple home Audio system.
2. Connect iPhone or iPad to chargeable portable speaker, use Pandora. For listening to music outside.
3. Connect TiVo to some streaming company. Shows "video"(song name, generic images) on the TV, plays sound though home audio system.
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