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  #11  
Old 03-28-2020, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Incredible Hulctuary View Post
The i5-4440 has a passmark score of only 4540, so yeah it's a definite bottleneck. The GTX 1080 will want a CPU with at least double that.

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php....10GHz&id=2017
Any suggestions?
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  #12  
Old 03-29-2020, 08:04 AM
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Any suggestions?
Something in the AMD Ryzen 7 series. Look up prices at Amazon or Newegg or wherever, then cross-check the CPU model against the benchmark scores on the high-end CPU list (https://www.cpubenchmark.net/high_end_cpus.html). Even the 1700, which is at the lower end of the Ryzen 7 range, has a score over 14000.
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2020, 05:45 PM
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BTW, I did go crazy mode and bought a new PC soon after making my last post. Gonna be a 1440p 144hz monster and I'm sooo looking forward to it. I built most of it on Sunday with my brother and it did boot correctly with mobo, cpu, and ram installed. Waiting for some case fans to come in then I'll put in the SSD, GPU, and case fans and seal it up! A lot of the 144hz 1440p IPS panel gaming monitors are completely out of stock right now. So I'll be waiting on that for a few weeks it seems.
this was my final build: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fGCnjp - final price I paid was about $2700 for everything listed.

Got the CPU, GPU, and Mobo at Microcenter and everything else but the monitor through Newegg.

Got quite stressful building with my younger brother who was a bit too gung-ho and presumptive with how the build would go after watching a few youtube vids. He managed to try and drop his $400 ryzen 3900x cpu in the wrong orientation after not reading the instructions and bent multiple pins in the process. That rocked his confidence pretty good. Set us back a good hour or two while he painstakingly and carefully tried to gently bend back these tiny CPU pins to a vertical position (was about 6 in total) with tweezers/tiniest of screwdrivers. After that stressful period we tried dropping it back in and the corner with the bent pins didn't go initially. After a little bit of pressure it finally did drop in but we had to wait another hour to test it once we got the cpu coolers and ram installed. Luckily for him it did boot and after a good while longer we finally had his build wrapped up with the exception of a couple additional case fans.
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  #14  
Old 04-01-2020, 05:58 PM
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My personal recommendations Fat Ninja:
- AMD seems to be the better value in this price range - where you go in their line up is a bit more subjective I suppose. 3700x seemed a versatile middle/high end CPU, but doubt you effectively lose much going lower on the ladder.
- I would go 32gb RAM, I've seen my RAM hitting 12-13gb when playing some of the newer games these days and I wanted to future proof it a bit better. But that being said, you can be flexible like you mention and just start at 16gb.
- Ryzen CPUs mesh better with low latency/fast frequency RAM from the research I did (as in it makes more of a difference than if you were using Intel). The one I got on Newegg (in my part list above) seemed to be a pretty good deal if you decide to go all out, but there are definitely other options. I knew I was looking for 32gb, 16 or lower latency RAM when I was searching and came across it.

Couple questions - are you reusing any other parts (PSU, hard drivers, windows, case, case fans) in the build? Wondering what exactly the $1000 is covering.
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  #15  
Old 04-02-2020, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by dancran1220 View Post
Couple questions - are you reusing any other parts (PSU, hard drivers, windows, case, case fans) in the build? Wondering what exactly the $1000 is covering.
I'm only reusing the GPU and my secondary hard drive. The $1000 isn't set in stone, but I'd like to keep it below $1,500 which seems doable.
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  #16  
Old 04-02-2020, 12:35 PM
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With an AMD CPU + motherboard under $500 combined, it should be easy to keep the total under $1000.
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  #17  
Old 04-02-2020, 01:23 PM
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https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FNsjL2

Certainly could go cheaper than this quite easily as this is more on the high end and just mirrors much of my build.

CPU: Just started with what I went with, don't know enough about other parts of the Ryzen line up to justify one over the other for your use cases so feel free to change. Looked briefly at 2700x but the price was basically the same.

CPU cooler: Went with same fan I used in my build (got for $85-90 from Newegg), obviously a ton of alternatives here (can also just use stock fan it comes with if preferred)

Mobo: Didn't spend any time on the mobo besides standard ATX filter basically. I went X570, but you could probably also do Bseries depending on how you envision using it (but then the 3700x might be overkill).

RAM: Went with same RAM I mentioned previously and used in my build since it seems like a good deal, but again on the upper end of what you have stated.

SSD: Budget friendly 1TB M2 NVME - not as fast as other M2s but still better than standard SSDs - don't know much about it beyond that

Case: Didn't look at all, just chose the case I went with

PSU: Went semi-modular since can typically save 10-30 bucks and you always use all the hard wired cables on gaming rigs. Dropped wattage by 100 from my build, but same brand+model.

Windows is windows.

Obviously many, many alternatives along the way and opportunities to save money on the CPU+CPU cooler+Mobo combo for sure. RAM was on the high side as well.

Edit: looks like almost all the parts are available on Newegg which is a nice perk as well.

Last edited by dancran1220; 04-02-2020 at 01:26 PM..
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  #18  
Old 04-06-2020, 12:00 PM
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Looking at the Power User Video Editing Build from logicalincrements.com , since that is the most intensive use case for the home machine (nothing fancy, just home movies). I am not a gamer, so GPU is on lower end compared to gaming.

Adds I am contemplating: 2 4TB HDD (RAID 1), optical drive, wifi adapter.

Upgrades AMD Ryzen 5 3600X for $25 more than AMD Ryzen 5 3600, EVGA 650W Gold

Downgrade 1TB intel 660p SSD instead of 2TB

Questions: Case says 1 external 5.25" drive bay, 2 external 3.5" drive bay, 2 internal 2.5" drive bays. I can see the spot on the case that I'd expect to put an optical drive, but what does "external" mean on the 3.5"? If I add 2 4TB HDD (RAID 1), do they have to be external drives (to me that means a separate physical case with cables connecting it to the box)?

No additional cooler is included in the build, should I add one due to extra CPU wattage (95 vs 65)?

Want to run 3x 1920x1080 monitor setup. GPU has 3xDP. To get best output, I suppose I should stick to monitors with DP inputs. Am I correct in assuming cables that change DP to HDMI, for instance, lose benefits of DP over HDMI? Would it be noticeable to a non-gamer?
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  #19  
Old 04-06-2020, 12:26 PM
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External means it's inside the case but can be accessed from outside. Their 3.5 external drives are theoretical as you would need a different side panel (or to cut a hole in the side panel provided). Glancing amazon questions:

Quote:
Question:
How many hard drives will this case support? hoping to fit 1 ssd & 2 hdd
Answer:
There is an HDD 'cage' that holds 2 HDDs, I believe. I took this out however in my build. There are 2 spots for SSDs as well, located hidden behind the backplate, not visible from the window, but is accessible from the RIGHT panel of the case. Depending upon your build requirements, you could put another SSD next to the motherboard, visible and accessible from the LEFT pane. Would require you to drill a hole or two though. I did this for my build, because I wanted to see my SSD via the window. see less
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  #20  
Old 04-07-2020, 02:00 PM
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Based on my previous builds, the external 3.5" would be for adding a multicard reader (like for USB sticks, microSD cards, etc. Typically, you pop off a front panel to install the exterior facing 3.5" device, but you can also leave the front panel in place and use that area to mount internal devices, such as your 3.5" HDD facing inward. YMMV.
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I can see the spot on the case that I'd expect to put an optical drive, but what does "external" mean on the 3.5"? If I add 2 4TB HDD (RAID 1), do they have to be external drives (to me that means a separate physical case with cables connecting it to the box)?
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